Backpacking in Sequoia
Mary and I made our annual pilgrimage to Sequoia National Park on September 26-27. This year we were joined by our good friend Kevin. We were planning to backpack to Jennie Lake in the Sequoia National Forest, but found out on arrival that it was opening weekend for hunting season. Not wanting any part of the hunting frenzy, we decided to switch to a trail inside the National Park. We ended up deciding on the Lakes Trail.
Note: In a totally boneheaded move, I managed to set my camera to its lowest resolution (640×480). I was so disappointed when I got home, but I’m trying to put that behind me now. In any case, the full set of (small) photos are in my Sequoia - September 2009 Gallery.
Day 1: Lakes Trail to Emerald Lake (September 26, 2009)
With or plan changes, we didn’t get on the trail until after noon. It would be 5 miles and 2000 feet to Emerald Lake. The first mile or so is along a moraine at the end of the Tokopah Valley. It’s an unrelenting 3.2 mile climb to the Watchtower.
This part of the hike is mostly forested. There are some views across the valley from the ridge of the moraine, but these disappear as the trail angles away for a time. After a sweaty climb, we reached the Watchtower with incredible views up the Tokopah Valley (left). We stopped here for lunch and posed for pictures (Kevin on the right).
It’s hard to get a feel for that Watchtower when you’re at the top of it. After the Watchtower the Lakes Trail skirts along a cliff above the Tokopah Valley. Looking back you can see the Watchtower standing tall above the valley floor (left). I really enjoy this part of the trail and the incredible views. It helps that this section is a bit flatter as well. After one last climb we dropped down into the bowl containing Heather Lake.
Heather Lake (right) is a beautiful lake. It’s a popular destination for day hikers and fishermen, but there’s no camping along its shores. We pushed on crossing another small ridge to reach Emerald Lake and Aster Lake further below. While we trying to decide if we wanted to camp here for the night or continue to Pear Lake, we ran across the Pear Lake ranger, Crystal. She told us that Pear Lake was pretty much full, which settled things for us. In the end, there was only one other group camping at Emerald Lake, so we were in heaven.
Mary and I had been to Pear Lake a couple years prior (see my Lakes Trail blog from 2007). At the time we had thought Emerald Lake was a nicer destination than Pear Lake and had vowed to return ad camp there sometime. We were fulfilling that vow with only one reservation: we knew there were pikas at Pear Lake. We really like pikas and were sad to think we might not see our fuzzy little friends. As we started setting up camp in sate number 5, much to our happiness, we could hear the little squeaks of pikas all around us. After setting up our tents and filtering some water, we found a little pika no more than 100 yards for our site!
The three of us chatted and ate dinner as the sun set. This was Kevin’s first “real” backpacking adventure, and seemed to be enjoying it. While chatting, Kevin noticed a sound coming from our backpacks. Mary and I investigated, finding a little mouse chewing through a side pocked on my pack where I had inadvertently left some pretzels. We chased it away and put all the food in our bear canister. The weather was fairly mild for late September, so we were able to keep warm without a campfire. After dinner we had some chocolate cake that Mary made using Matthieu’s recipe. It was delicious. After enjoying the stars and conversation, we turned in for the night.
Day 2: Emerald Lake to Trailhead and the General Sherman Tree (September 27, 2009)
I was the first one to rise the following morning. My first order of business was to pick up where I left off with the pikas. I found two of them very near where I had watched them the previous evening. I watched them for quite a while. See the video above as well as another I posted on YouTube. There are more pictures in my Emerald Lake Pikas Gallery. They are so cute.After spending some time with the pikas, I visited the relatively pleasant solar composting toilet then started working on breakfast.
After breakfast, Mary and Kevin filtered water while I explored the area a bit. Once the sun was fully up and the air warmed, the pikas stayed in their dens. I had to satisfy myself with the beautiful views of the lake and mountains (picture on right).
It was noon by the time we set off down the trail.I guess we were enjoying the lake so much we were reluctant to leave. We made it to Heather Lake pretty quickly, stopping briefly for some photos (Ed and Mary in photo on left). The hike out is primarily down hill and so it was much easier. It was a good thing since the day was warming up.
Kevin and I posed on the trail above the Tokopah Valley (right). A little further along we reached the Watchtower, once again stopping for lunch.Over lunch, we chatted with a Sequoia Park employee who was on his way up to take water samples in the Marble Fork. There certainly are worse places to call your office.
We made it back to the car around 3, and decided to visit the General Sherman Tree. The General Sherman parking area is a short drive from the trailhead. It’s a 1/4 mile walk from the parking area down to the tree. We were all feeling good now that we didn’t have our packs to lug around. The General Sherman Tree is at the edge of the Giant Forest where there are plenty of sequoias to see. The General Sherman Tree is the largest tree by volume in the world!
On our way back to the parking lot, we were treated to a surprise. No more than 30 yards of the trail was a black bear fattening up for the winter (see video below and photos in my Bears Gallery). We watched it forage for quite a while before returning to the car. We made a quick stop at the store at Lodgepole for drinks and a snack, then headed out of the park. On the drive back, we stopped in Fresno for dinner, dropped off Kevin in Livermore and made it home around 11:30. All in all, it was a great trip to Sequoia. Too bad summer is over!
Posted on 28th September 2009
Under: Backpacking, Wildlife, National Parks | 1 Comment »


















