Day 5: Driving from Many Glacier to Waterton (August 19, 2009)
Today would be another moving day for us. We packed up our stuff, said goodbye to the Swiftcurrent Valley, and headed for Canada. On the way out of the valley, we stopped for a view of Lake Sherburne (photo on left). It was a calm, beautiful day, and the water was like glass. Further along the road, we could see something swimming out in the lake, so we stopped to check it out.
All we could tell for sure was that a fuzzy brown head was about halfway across the lake. We waited for it to reach the far side, then we could see the swimmer was a grizzly bear! On our way out of the park, we finally stopped for the ubiquitous photo with the park sign (photo on right).
We took the Chief Mountain International Highway north into Canada then into Waterton Lakes National Park. Once again we stopped for a park sign photo op (on left). Waterton is essential an extension of Glacier on the Canadian side of the border. The two parks combined make up the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park.
The heart of Waterton is the Waterton Townsite on the shore of Upper Waterton Lake (on right). Mary and I checked into our hotel in Waterton, Bear Mountain Motel, while the girls went to look for a friend at the Prince of Wales lodge.
Maggie and Molly decided to join their friend for a long hike across Carthew-Alderson while Mary and I opted for a shorter hike up Bear’s Hump. Bear’s Hump is right at the edge of Waterton Townsite, starting at the visitor center. It’s only 1.7 miles round trip, but it’s a pretty steep climb. From the top there are great views of the lakes, town and mountains (photo on left).
It was a pretty warm day, so we worked up quite a sweat on the short climb. There was a nice breeze at the top so we stopped for a quick snack as we took in the views.

After the short hike, we cleaned up then headed into town for a late lunch. The town is pretty nice. It doesn’t cover much more than a dozen blocks, but there are some nice places to eat and a number of lodges. We ended up eating at a place called Zum’s Eatery. It had a fairly good selection and the food is tasty. After lunch we took a stroll around town and along the lake.
There are deer everywhere, including a number of fawns. They seem pretty fond of the clover in the lawns, though they seem just as happy with ice cream cones that some of the tourists were feeding them.
Later, we took a drive up the Red Rock Parkway. This is supposed to be a great area to find bears, and sure enough we saw one along the road. It was in some bushes and there were a lot of cars around, so we decided to keep moving. At the end of the road is Red Rock Canyon. We pulled into the parking area and saw a female bighorn sheep with a young lamb.
It seems the sheep here have learned to lick salts off the undercarriages of cars. It’s pretty bizarre to see (photo on left).
After watching the sheep for a bit, we took a short (0.4 mile) stroll along the canyon (photo on right). The red layers in the canyon get their color from iron oxidation.
Apparently this is some of the oldest exposed rock in the world, having been created some billion years ago at the bottom of the ancient Belt Sea. In addition to the loop around the small canyon, we decided to hike out to Blakiston Falls (photo on left), a 1.2 miles round trip. The hike meanders through a lovely forest to the falls. At the falls, there are a number of platforms for your viewing pleasure.

On the drive back out along the Red Rock Parkway we saw two more bears. In both cases the bears were happily munching on berries not far from the road. We were able to pull off and watch them from the safety of the car. They seemed to be doing a great job of fattening up for the coming winter.
Maggie and Molly weren’t back yet, so Mary and I headed into town for dinner. We decided on Pizza of Waterton. After dinner we met up with the girls. They had a great hike, making it to the top of Mt. Alderson. Since the hike was a one way trip, I gave Maggie a ride back to the car while Mary went with Molly to pick up some dinner for her and Mags. Sadly, in the morning we would be going our separate ways.
More pictures from Day 5.
Day 6: Hiking to Crypt Lake (August 20, 2009)
We all had to get an early start today. Maggie and Molly would be heading back to Lake McDonald while Mary and I were to catch a boat across the lake to the Crypt Lake Trailhead. After saying our farewells to the girls (we would see them again soon), Mary and I walked to the boat dock. We would be taking a 10-15 minute boat ride across the lake where we would begin our 11.2 mile round trip hike. Crypt Lake has been voted the best hike in Canada in years past.
The hike starts at the lakeside and quickly climbs through a wooded hillside. There was a whole boat-load of people and the trail isn’t very wide, so this part was slow going as we worked our way through the group. As the trail climbs above the trees, the views open up across Hellroaring Creek Valley (right).
The trail follows along the north side of the valley, the starts to climb up some rocky switchbacks. At this point, Crypt Falls come into view at the head of the valley (left).
After a sweaty climb up the switchbacks, it looked like we were headed for a dead-end at the headwall. Just when it seemed we would have to turn back, we could see an iron ladder leading up to a 4-foot high tunnel.
Mary took the lead up the ladder and into the tunnel (right). This was our second experience with a hiking trail passing through a tunnel. In this case, the reasons were a bit more obvious. There just didn’t seem to be any safe way around to the other side.
I had a bit more trouble squeezing through the tunnel than Mary (photo on left). I was just barely able to squat through the middle without having to go on hands and knees or take off my pack. For me, this was the hardest part of the hike. Fortunately, the tunnel is only 20 feet or so. On the far side of the tunnel a narrow trail traverses the remaining cliff face. From here there are great views of the falls as well as back down the valley toward Upper Waterton Lake.
There’s a steel cable bolted to the wall for additional safety (photo on right).
After a couple hundred yards of cable, we were back on solid ground. We were back in the trees and soon passed a pretty nice camping area. A short side trail led to the creek which feeds the falls. The top of the falls are just barely visible, but I wasn’t interested in maneuvering along along the cliff to get a better view.
After one last climb the trail entered into the cirque which contains Crypt Lake (photo on left). A few people had reached the lake before us, but there was still plenty of space for us to stake a claim. We picked a spot along the northeast side of the lake to drop our packs and relax. Just past the south end of the lake lies the US-Canada border. We soaked our feet and ate lunch as more groups arrived. One large group changed into swim suits (and in the case of one older woman - a birthday suit) and braved the icy water. We enjoyed the lake for nearly an hour before heading back down the trail.
We made pretty good time back to the lake, stopping only to pick and eat the occasional thimbleberry. We were the first to arrive at the landing and waited on the dock for about 30 minutes for our ride to arrive (photo on right). All in all, it’s a nice hike. There’s a variety of terrain and the ladder and tunnel make for an interesting twist. I would definitely recommend this hike, but I’m not completely sure it ranks at the top of all the hikes in Canada, though I don’t have much to compare it with.
After getting back to Watertown Townsite, we jumped in the car and drove the Akamina Parkway to Cameron Lake (photo on left). We scanned the lake shore for wildlife, spotting a deer but not much else. Wanting to see some wildlife, we hopped back in the car and made for Red Rock Parkway.
Not to disappoint, Red Rock quickly yielded us a couple more bear sightings. In addition, we encountered a ptarmigan strutting across the road (photo on right).
Back in town we grabbed dinner at Zum’s and enjoyed an evening stroll around the town before turning in at the end of yet another fantastic day.
More pictures from Day 6.