When my niece, Maggie, finished up her summer job at Glacier National Park, she decided to make her way to California. She would be driving from Northern Montana over to Portland, OR then down the coast to Southern California. I decided to take a few days off and join her for part of the drive, so on September 30, 2009, I flew up to Portland to drive the Oregon Coast, Crater Lake National Park and the Redwoods of California.

Day 1: Portland to Tillamook (September 30, 2009)

I had a 7am flight from San Jose to Portland to meet up with Maggie. I took a quick photo of San Francisco when we flew by (see left). The flight landed in Portland around 8:45am. Maggie and her friend Dan picked me up. We grabbed some breakfast at a nice diner in Portland, hit up the local REI for a couple items Maggie needed, then hit the road. We weren’t in Portland very long, otherwise I would have liked to catch up with my friend Darren.

Rather than head straight for the coast, we decided to head Northwest to Astoria, OR and the mouth of the Columbia River. About half of the drive to Astoria was actually in Washington. On our way through Astoria, we picked up some food, stopped for a view of the Astoria Bridge (on right) then headed to the fort Stevens State Park at the Northwest tip of Oregon. We walked along the Columbia River for a bit and took in some ocean views. We ended up having lunch at Coffenbury Lake in the park.

Further down the coast we stopped at Ecola State Park. Here we saw some of the rocky beaches the Oregon Coast is famous for, including Cannon Beach (left). There are lots of great views like that all along the coast. We stopped occasionally to take in a few. It was getting dark as we neared Tillamook. Rather than drive the rest of the coast in the dark, we decided to stop for the night even though we were really less than 2 hours from Portland. Besides, we were both interested in stopping at the Tillamook Cheese Factory.

We had been using Google Latitude on my iPhone so a few people could track our progress. The main problem with the app on the iPhone is that it only updates our location when I run it (it doesn’t work in the background). So we could only post updates when we stopped somewhere with a good data signal. The other problem was that from time to time Latitude would report that we were somewhere near Eugene even though we were not.

Day 2: Tillamook to Crater Lake (October 1, 2o09)

In the morning we stopped at the Tillamook Cheese Factory for a self-guided tour. The tour consists of a couple views over the top of the factory floor. Seeing 40 pound blocks of cheddar rolling along the conveyor belts was a sight to see. We sampled a few different versions of the cheddar at various stages of aging. The un-aged curds were actually pretty good.  We also tried some Tillamook ice cream. It was quite a breakfast.

After the cheese factory we hit the road. Our first stop was Cape Meares to see the lighthouse (left). It was still a bit overcast and chilly, so we didn’t stay long. We were off of US-101 for a while driving along the coast. It was slow going, but views were amazing. We reconnected with the Oregon Coast Highway (US-101) somewhere around Cloverdale.

The highway winds along the coast, sometimes away from the ocean, and sometimes right along the cliffs. A ways down the coast we stopped at Yaquina Head. By now the sun was shining. The Yaquina Head Lighthouse (right) was the nicest one we saw along the coast, maybe because it’s one of the tallest. The views from Yaquina Head are pretty amazing as well (left).

We made a few more stops along the coast, including the Sea Lion Caves (though we didn’t go in since the sea lions were all out on the beaches). After that, we cut inland to head for Crater Lakes National Park. We took the Umpqua Highway, which is a beautiful drive along the Umpqua River. There’s an elk reserve along the way where we stopped for a few photos. As the sun was setting we hit I-5 and continued East toward the park. By the time we climbed up to Diamond Lake just outside the park, the temperatures had dipped down to freezing. Fortunately we managed to get a room at the Diamond Lake Resort where we were quite comfortable. We would worry about the temperatures tomorrow.

There are additional pictures from the Oregon Coast in the gallery.

Day 3: Crater Lake (October 2, 2009)

It was still freezing when we got up in the morning. We bundled up in our warmest clothes and headed into the park.We entered the park at the north entrance (stopping at the park sign for a photo of course). We passed through the Pumice Desert, left over from the eruptions eons ago. Our first view of the lake was at Merriam Point. The icy wind blasted us as we viewed the dark and moody waters of Crater Lake. We drove along the West Rim Drive to the Rim Village. There were icicles on the eaves of the information pavilion near the village (left).

We continued our drive around the Rim Road, stopping for stupendous views like Cloudcap. Near the northern rim, we hiked down the crater wall to the lakeside below. There’s a boat launch there (right) and we were able to touch the clear blue waters. The hike is about a mile with an 800 foot descent. We managed to work up a sweat on the climb back up despite the temperature.

We finished driving around the rim and ended up back at the Crater Lake Lodge. From the lodge we hiked  up the 8,054 foot Garfield Peak. The hike is about about 1.3 miles each way with a climb of about 1200 feet. We had a small snowball fight along the way. The views are beautiful from the top (left). There were only a few other groups on the trail. On the way down a golden eagle soared right over our heads. Pretty cool.

After the hike we stopped at the gift shop then headed for California. The drive from the park out the south entrance to I-5 was quite scenic. From I-5 we hopped on US-199 heading southwest. We crossed into California after dark. Even in the dark Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park was impressive. It was a nice preview for the following day. We ended up in Crescent City for the night.

There are additional pictures in my Crater Lake Gallery.

Day 4: California Redwoods (October 3, 2009)

In the morning we stopped at the redwood visitor center in Crescent City. From there we decided to continue south on US-101, stopping for pictures but not bothering with any long hike. We figured we would push all the way to San Jose. We drove through the Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park admiring the trees from the comfort of the car. Our first stop was an overlook for the Klamath River (left).

South of the river we passed through Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. We stopped for a short walk through the Lady Bird Johnson Grove in Redwood National Park. Here we managed to get up close and personal with the redwoods (right). The loop through the grove is only about a mile. It was colder than we expected, so we walked through a little quicker than we had wanted to. There are more pictures from the grove in my Redwood National Park gallery.

We passed through Eureka, then on to Humboldt Redwoods State Park. In Humboldt we got off US-101 and drove along the Avenue of the Giants. This is a really great drive through the redwoods. There are tons of huge trees and views of the Eel River. Of the 180 redwoods over 350 feet, 150 of them are in Humboldt Redwoods State Park. There’s a video of part of the drive below.

After Humboldt, we pressed on to San Jose. We made it there shortly after 9pm, in time to have dinner at home with Mary. I had a great time with Maggie, but I was glad to be home. Maybe we’ll get another chance for a road trip. Hopefully next time Mary and Molly will be able to join us!

Day 7: Driving from Waterton to East Glacier (August 21, 2009)

We really enjoyed Waterton, but it was time to move on to East Glacier and the Two Medicine area of the park. On our way out of Waterton, we decided to make a quick stop at Maskinonge Lake. This lake is supposed to be a haven for waterfowl as it is at a junction of multiple flyways. It seems we weren’t there at the right season to see many migrating birds, but we did see some resident birds such as a belted kingfisher (on left) and woodpeckers. We even saw some sort of little weasel near one of the picnic areas, but I didn’t manage to get a picture of the little bugger.

We drove back across the US boarder, getting fully interrogated by the border patrol. Back in the US, we made a beeline for East Glacier. We checked in to our home for the next two nights, Mountain Pine Motel. It was a hot day and we didn’t much feel like hiking in the heat, so we rested in our room for a couple hours. When it had colled down a little, we drove into the park to Two Medicine Lake (photo on right).

We had planned to catch a boat across the lake then hike to some falls, but we founf out we would have to pay for a round trip ticket, though there would be no return trip. Since this would be the last trip, we would have to hike all the way back around the lake. We decided to pass and instead went on a different hike to Scenic Point, a 6.2 mile round trip. It was already 4:30pm, so we would have to keep moving.

The hike starts on the Mount Henry Trail in a wooded climb out of the valley. We quickly left the trees behind, hiking on a rocky slope towards the Appistoki Creek Valley. Part of the trail passed though a forest of twisted pine tress (photo on left). Leaving even those twisted trees behind, we topped a rocky ridge then traversed it to Scenic Point (photo on right). It was a steep, hot climb, but the views from the top were quite nice. We could see past East Glacier into the plains of central Montana.

On the hike back down, we were rewarded with great views of Two Medicine Lake (left).  We made it back to the car shortly after 8pm. On the drive back to the motel, we spotted a black bear along the road, but didn’t have any where to stop for a better look.

We met up with Maggie and a few of her friends at a Mexican restaurant in East Glacier. We had a nice dinner and chatted over beer and margaritas. After dinner Maggie headed back to Lake McDonald, planning to come back again for dinner the following day. Mary and turned in for the night.

More pictures from Day 7.

Day 8: Hiking in Two Medicine (August 22, 2009)

Today we planned to catch the boat across Two Medicine Lake to hike to Upper Two Medicine Lake. Dominating the north shore of the lake is Rising Wolf Mountain (left). There’s supposed to be a really nice hike which circumnavigates the mountain, but we were not up for a nearly 20 mile hike. The boat trip across the lake was only 15 minutes or so. From the trail head on the far side, we headed into the woods.

The trail to Upper Two Medicine Lake is 4.4 miles from the landing. A short way up the trail there’s a spur trail to Twin Falls (right). There were a few  families at the falls, so wedecided to push on to the lake. We were able to sample more berries along the trail which passed through some forests and meadows. The meadows were full of wildflowers. We reached the lake (left) by noon and stopped there for lunch. On our way back down the trail we heard some people had spotted a black bear. We were on the lookout for it, but never did see it. We got back to the landing and waited for the next boat.

After the boat ride back, we decided to hike to Aster Falls (right), a 2.6 mile round trip.  I had read that there are a number of beaver ponds along this trail. We did see a number of ponds and even found a beaver lodge, but my guess it the lodge was abandoned long ago. The falls were nice in any case. We stopped there for a photo op and a bit of a snack.

After Aster Falls, we drove to the Running Eagle Falls Trailhead. This is a short, 0.6 mile trail to an interesting water fall (left). It’s interesting in that the water comes our of the middle of the cliff rather than from the top. Apparently during the early Summer, the water flows over the top of the cliff, covering the lower fall. Only for part of the year is the lower fall visible. For this reason, Running Eagle Fall is also called Trick Fall.

Back in East Glacier we grabbed a coffee at Brownies and waited for Maggie to arrive. We had a nice dinner at Luna’s Cafe. Luna is from Pittsburgh, PA which was obvious with all the Steelers paraphernalia on the walls and the fact that the salads had french fries on top. We said another goodbye as Maggie headed back across the pass, and called an end to another great day. Tomorrow would be our last chance to enjoy the park.

More pictures from Day 8.

Day 9: Driving from East Glacier to West Glacier (August 23, 2009)

In no hurry to leave Glacier, we got a slow start on our last day. We had breakfast at the Whistle Stop Restaurant, famous for their huckleberry stuffed French toast. After breakfast, we headed back up the Going-to-the-Sun Road to Logan Pass (left). The day was clear, so the views were fantastic. We wandered around the visitor center enjoying the views, the squirrels and the wildflowers, especially the flower we affectionately dubbed the “Cousin It” flower (on right).

We decided to get in one more hike before leaving the park, so we headed for the Avalanche Lake Trailhead. It was a busy day in the park, so the drive down was a bit slow. We didn’t mind too much. On the way down from the pass, we saw a mountain goat with a kid lounging by the road (left).  The views and the waterfalls were amazing all along the drive. We would have loved to try the Highline Trail again on such a clear day.

We managed to find parking at the fairly crowded Avalanche parking area. We started the 4.4 mile round trip hike to Avalanche Lake by following part of the Trail of the Cedars. Had it really been a week since we walked that loop? Feeling pressed for time, we kept moving up the trail. In spite of all the people, it’s a really nice trail. The lower part of Avalanche Creek is really nice, and the woods are well shaded. We saw a couple deer along the way. We stopped for a late lunch at the lake (right), the headed back to the car.

By the time we made it to the Lake McDonald Lodge, Maggie had already headed off for a backpacking trip. We did get to say goodbye to Molly who was working at the front desk. On our drive back to the airport we stopped at the Huckleberry Patch for some huckleberry pie. It was quite tasty! At the airport in Kalispell, we returned our trusty steed (the Nissan Rogue) and checked in for our flight. We were sad to leave glacier behind, but at least we have all these photos and memories to remind us of one of the greatest national parks in the world!

More photos from Day 9.

All photos from Glacier National Park.

Day 5: Driving from Many Glacier to Waterton (August 19, 2009)

Today would be another moving day for us. We packed up our stuff, said goodbye to the Swiftcurrent Valley, and headed for Canada. On the way out of the valley, we stopped for a view of Lake Sherburne (photo on left). It was a calm, beautiful day, and the water was like glass. Further along the road, we could see something swimming out in the lake, so we stopped to check it out. All we could tell for sure was that a fuzzy brown head was about halfway across the lake. We waited for it to reach the far side, then we could see the swimmer was a grizzly bear! On our way out of the park, we finally stopped for the ubiquitous photo with the park sign (photo on right).

We took the Chief Mountain International Highway north into Canada then into Waterton Lakes National Park. Once again we stopped for a park sign photo op (on left). Waterton is essential an extension of Glacier on the Canadian side of the border. The two parks combined make up the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park. The heart of Waterton is the Waterton Townsite on the shore of Upper Waterton Lake (on right). Mary and I checked into our hotel in Waterton, Bear Mountain Motel, while the girls went to look for a friend at the Prince of Wales lodge.

Maggie and Molly decided to join their friend for a long hike across Carthew-Alderson while Mary and I opted for a shorter hike up Bear’s Hump. Bear’s Hump is right at the edge of Waterton Townsite, starting at the visitor center. It’s only 1.7 miles round trip, but it’s a pretty steep climb. From the top there are great views of the lakes, town and mountains (photo on left). It was a pretty warm day, so we worked up quite a sweat on the short climb. There was a nice breeze at the top so we stopped for a quick snack as we took in the views.

After the short hike, we cleaned up then headed into town for a late lunch. The town is pretty nice. It doesn’t cover much more than a dozen blocks, but there are some nice places to eat and a number of lodges. We ended up eating at a place called Zum’s Eatery. It had a fairly good selection and the food is tasty. After lunch we took a stroll around town and along the lake. There are deer everywhere, including a number of fawns. They seem pretty fond of the clover in the lawns, though they seem just as happy with ice cream cones that some of the tourists were feeding them.

Later, we took a drive up the Red Rock Parkway. This is supposed to be a great area to find bears, and sure enough we saw one along the road. It was in some bushes and there were a lot of cars around, so we decided to keep moving. At the end of the road is Red Rock Canyon. We pulled into the parking area and saw a female bighorn sheep with a young lamb. It seems the sheep here have learned to lick salts off the undercarriages of cars. It’s pretty bizarre to see (photo on left).

After watching the sheep for a bit, we took a short (0.4 mile) stroll along the canyon (photo on right). The red layers in the canyon get their color from iron oxidation. Apparently this is some of the oldest exposed rock in the world, having been created some billion years ago at the bottom of the ancient Belt Sea. In addition to the loop around the small canyon, we decided to hike out to Blakiston Falls (photo on left), a 1.2 miles round trip. The hike meanders through a lovely forest to the falls. At the falls, there are a number of platforms for your viewing pleasure.

On the drive back out along the Red Rock Parkway we saw two more bears. In both cases the bears were happily munching on berries not far from the road. We were able to pull off and watch them from the safety of the car. They seemed to be doing a great job of fattening up for the coming winter.

Maggie and Molly weren’t back yet, so Mary and I headed into town for dinner. We decided on Pizza of Waterton. After dinner we met up with the girls. They had a great hike, making it to the top of Mt. Alderson. Since the hike was a one way trip, I gave Maggie a ride back to the car while Mary went with Molly to pick up some dinner for her and Mags. Sadly, in the morning we would be going our separate ways.

More pictures from Day 5.

Day 6: Hiking to Crypt Lake (August 20, 2009)

We all had to get an early start today. Maggie and Molly would be heading back to Lake McDonald while Mary and I were to catch a boat across the lake to the Crypt Lake Trailhead. After saying our farewells to the girls (we would see them again soon), Mary and I walked to the boat dock. We would be taking a 10-15 minute boat ride across the lake where we would begin our 11.2 mile round trip hike. Crypt Lake has been voted the best hike in Canada in years past.

The hike starts at the lakeside and quickly climbs through a wooded hillside. There was a whole boat-load of people and the trail isn’t very wide, so this part was slow going as we worked our way through the group. As the trail climbs above the trees, the views open up across Hellroaring Creek Valley (right). The trail follows along the north side of the valley, the starts to climb up some rocky switchbacks. At this point, Crypt Falls come into view at the head of the valley (left).

After a sweaty climb up the switchbacks, it looked like we were headed for a dead-end at the headwall. Just when it seemed we would have to turn back, we could see an iron ladder leading up to a 4-foot high tunnel. Mary took the lead up the ladder and into the tunnel (right). This was our second experience with a hiking trail passing through a tunnel. In this case, the reasons were a bit more obvious. There just didn’t seem to be any safe way around to the other side.

I had a bit more trouble squeezing through the tunnel than Mary (photo on left). I was just barely able to squat through the middle without having to go on hands and knees or take off my pack. For me, this was the hardest part of the hike. Fortunately, the tunnel is only 20 feet or so. On the far side of the tunnel a narrow trail traverses the remaining cliff face. From here there are great views of the falls as well as back down the valley toward Upper Waterton Lake. There’s a steel cable bolted to the wall for additional safety (photo on right).

After a couple hundred yards of cable, we were back on solid ground. We were back in the trees and soon passed a pretty nice camping area. A short side trail led to the creek which feeds the falls. The top of the falls are just barely visible, but I wasn’t interested in maneuvering along along the cliff to get a better view.

After one last climb the trail entered into the cirque which contains Crypt Lake (photo on left). A few people had reached the lake before us, but there was still plenty of space for us to stake a claim. We picked a spot along the northeast side of the lake to drop our packs and relax. Just past the south end of the lake lies the US-Canada border. We soaked our feet and ate lunch as more groups arrived. One large group changed into swim suits (and in the case of one older woman - a birthday suit) and braved the icy water. We enjoyed the lake for nearly an hour before heading back down the trail.

We made pretty good time back to the lake, stopping only to pick and eat the occasional thimbleberry. We were the first to arrive at the landing and waited on the dock for about 30 minutes for our ride to arrive (photo on right). All in all, it’s a nice hike. There’s a variety of terrain and the ladder and tunnel make for an interesting twist. I would definitely recommend this hike, but I’m not completely sure it ranks at the top of all the hikes in Canada, though I don’t have much to compare it with.

After getting back to Watertown Townsite, we jumped in the car and drove the Akamina Parkway to Cameron Lake (photo on left). We scanned the lake shore for wildlife, spotting a deer but not much else. Wanting to see some wildlife, we hopped back in the car and made for Red Rock Parkway. Not to disappoint, Red Rock quickly yielded us a couple more bear sightings. In addition, we encountered a ptarmigan strutting across the road (photo on right).

Back in town we grabbed dinner at Zum’s and enjoyed an evening stroll around the town before turning in at the end of yet another fantastic day.

More pictures from Day 6.

Day 3: Driving from West Glacier to Many Glacier (August 17, 2009)

We checked out of the Glacier Highland Resort to move to another area of the park. We picked up some huckleberry muffins from the Glacier Highland and espresso at the coffee truck in West Glacier and headed to the Lake McDonald Lodge to meet the girls. The huckleberry muffins were awesome: sweet, tart and tasty! Maggie and Molly had the next 3 days off and would be joining us in the Many Glacier/Swiftcurrent Valley and subsequently Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada. First on the agenda would be traversing the Going-to-the-Sun Road across Logan Pass and down to St. Mary.

Since the girls had to be back to work in a few days, we had to take separate cars. It was still a bit overcast as we drove up to the pass. At the Logan Pass Visitor Center, we took the 3 mile round trip trail to the Hidden Lake Overlook. True to its name, the lake was quite hidden (photo on left). There were a few breaks in the clouds allowing us to catch brief glimpses of the waters below. The boardwalk out to the lake and back was engulfed in fog.

On the drive down the East side of the road, we stopped at a few different view points. One of the stops included a 3.6 mile hike to St. Mary and Virginia Falls. The short hike was nicely forested and we were able to sample some berries along the way. There’s a short of the girls (Maggie, Molly and Mary) at one of the falls on the right. Another stop we made was at the Wild Goose Island Overlook. Wild Goose Island it a tiny dot of land in the midst of St. Mary Lake (photo on left).

Before exiting the park on the East, we stopped at the St. Mary Visitor Center. This is where we talked to a ranger and deduced that it was in fact a wolverine we had spotted on the Highline Trail the previous day. We were pleasantly surprised to see an active osprey nest next to the parking lot. There were at least 2 nearly grown juveniles in the nest, and I caught one of the adults hovering at the edge of the nest (photo on right).

Just outside the East entrance of the park is the town of St. Mary. It’s a small town but has a highly recommended restaurant called Park Cafe. We stopped there for lunch. The menu is a bit eclectic with various international wraps and sandwiches, but they are known for their pie. We all enjoyed our meals and each sampled a slice of pie.

Driving North from St. Mary, we headed for the Swiftcurrent Valley. This area of the park has its own entrance and 7 miles of road into the valley. The Many Glacier Lodge and Swiftcurrent Motor Inn are located in this valley. This area of the park is known as Many Glacier due to the lodge and its proximity to a number of the park’s glaciers.We checked in to the Swiftcurrent and relaxed a bit while the girls tried to track down a couple friends.

After the break, we took a short 3.6 mile stroll to Red Rock Lake (on left) and Falls (on right). After the stroll, we drove back out of the park looking for wildlife ,and eventually made our way to the Two Sisters Cafe for dinner. We had a nice relaxing dinner to top off a nice relaxing day.

More pictures from Day 3.

Day 4: Hiking to Ptarmigan Tunnel and Iceberg Lake (August 18, 2009)

We had been planning to hike to Grinnell Glacier, but the trail was closed due to bear activity. Instead, we decided on hiking to Ptarmigan Tunnel and Iceberg Lake, a 14.6 mile journey. We had a quick breakfast of bagels and a few items the girls foraged from the employee dining room (EDR). One nice thing about staying at the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn was that the trailhead was just outside our door. We were on the trial by 9:40am.

This was really 2 different hikes that started at the same trailhead. The trails share a couple miles climbing out of the Swiftcurrent Valley (picture on left) then fork in two different directions. We took the fork to Ptarmigan Tunnel first, since it was the harder hike. We were looking a a climb of a couple thousand feet over the next few miles. It would remain to be seen if we would still have the energy for Iceberg Lake on our return.

The hike to Ptarmigan Tunnel started climbing for about a mile, then leveled out a bit. There we many wildflowers along the trail, including some late season bear grass (tall flowers in picture on right). We reached Ptarmigan Lake around 11:30am. From there we had to ascend a few long, steep switchbacks to reach the tunnel high on the surrounding cliffs. At the top of the climb we had our picture taken (photo on left: Molly, Maggie, Mary and Ed). You can see a bit of Ptarmigan Lake behind us.

Ptarmigan Tunnel (on right) was built for hiking and horseback access to the Belly River Vally on the other side of the crest. It is tall enough for a person to ride through on horseback. I’m not sure why they didn’t just add another switchback or two to reach to cross over the crest rather than going through. Perhaps the rock was too unstable above. We did see a family of bighorn sheep bounding around up there. From the other end of the tunnel we had a beautiful view of the Belly River Valley and Lake Elizabeth (on left).

After enjoying the view and climbing around on the rocks a bit (mainly Maggie), we headed back through the tunnel and down the switchbacks to the lake where we stopped for lunch. There were a number of other people on the trail, especially since the Grinnell Glacier trail was closed. There were even a few backpackers heading for Lake Elizabeth. One guy, looking a bit worse for the wear, asked us if it was worth hiking to the tunnel. He said it was only worth it if the view was spectacular. None of us were ready to lay such a claim. I’m not sure if he ended up going to the top or not.

After lunch we retraced our steps back to the fork in the trail. As we were deciding wheter or not to continue up to Iceberg Lake, another group was deciding if they wanted to go to Ptarmigan Tunnel. We talked them into it. We were still feeling pretty good, so we headed up the trail to Iceberg Lake. We were excited to hear that a moose with a calf had been spotted along the trail. By the time we reached the area where the moose was spotted, it had moved. Fortunately it and the calf were still visible from the trail (photo on right). This was Molly’s first moose siting, and we were happy to be there to share it with her.

Iceberg Lake, as the name implies, fills with large chunks of ice as the spring thaw starts to break down the ice and snow on the cliffs above. Along with the ice comes a fine silt of ground rock which clouds up the water. The cloudy water, called glacier milk, produces an amazing milky blue color. By mid-August there wasn’t much ice left in the lake, though the water was plenty icy. We had another snack, posed for a few pictures, watched the squirrels and chipmunks scurry around looking for leftovers, then headed back down the trail. The last couple miles seemed to drag on forever, but eventually we made it. We were back at our room by 5 or 5:30pm. This would turn out to be our longest single hike of the trip.

After showering and resting a bit, Mary and I had dinner at the Swiftcurrent while the girls hit the EDR. After dinner, we decided to take another drive along the road looking for wildlife. We stopped at a pullout not far from the Many Glacier Lodge and Maggie yells out “bear!” We’re all looking across the river from where we’re parked thinking there’s no way she spotted a bear when we all realize a black bear is only about 15 feet away from the car. We watched it eat berries until it eventually wandered off in the fading light. Yet another great end to a great day!

More pictures from Day 4.

Day 2: Hiking the Highline Trail (August 16, 2009)

We awoke at our hotel in West Glacier to an overcast sky. Undaunted by the weather, we packed our rain gear in the car and headed into the park. We drove up the Going-to-the-Sun Road as far as The Loop, then caught the park shuttle (photo on right) to Logan Pass. We were planning to hike the Highline Trail from Logan Pass to the Granite Park Chalet, then down to The Loop. The hike is 11.6 miles.

When we arrived at Logan Pass around 10:30am, we were in a blanket of fog. There was a chance of thunderstorms in the forecast, so we stopped at the visitor center to ask a ranger is we should be concerned. The ranger said that we should be fine, though he did recommend we carry pepper spray in the event we encounter a hostile bear. We purchased a canister, donned our rain shells and hit the trail.

The Highline Trail starts just across the road from the Logan Pass information sign. It proceeds below the face of the Garden Wall (photo on right). We we still in the fog, but it wasn’t raining at that time. One short section of the trail has a steep drop-off, so they have installed a cable along the wall to hold on to for extra security. In the fog, we couldn’t even tell there was much of a drop.

One nice thing about the weather is that there was running water everywhere. Most of this took the form of cascading falls (photo on left). There were also many different wildflowers in the various pockets of vegetation. We encountered a lot of wildlife along the trail as well, including bighorn sheep (on right), marmot, pikas, deer, mountain goats and even a wolverine. We weren’t sure about the wolverine until we discussed it with a ranger the following day.

It was still foggy when we encountered the mountain goat pictured on the left. It was with a really cute goat kid. The kid seemed to have so much energy, hopping and running around. It’s amazing how easily they navigate the rocky cliffs. It was fun to watch.

It started to rain while we as we were nearing the chalet. Even with the fog and the rain, we had some beautiful views (Lake McDonald on the right). The rain was coming down pretty good by the time we reached the chalet, so we decided to stop for lunch and wait it out. We ate our sandwiches on the porch of the chalet (it was actually too hot inside). We chatted with some other hikers while we waited. Eventually, the rain subsided and we even saw a bit of sun.

We only had about 4 more miles down to the Loop. Most of this section of the trail was forested. There were berried everywhere. We sampled some of the berries. The thimbleberries are quite tasty. They look like a flatter, bowl-shaped raspberry. They taste similar too, sort of a more intense raspberry. We also tried what we thought were huckleberries, but turned out to be service berries (or Saskatoons). They are ok, but a little bland.

It turns out we were not the only ones enjoying the berries. We ran across a grizzly eating berries on the trail (photo on right). Fortunately we were had run across a few hikers a short time before, so we were not alone. We made some noise so the bear would be aware of us, but it was fairly indifferent. Eventually it had picked-clean the bush near the trail and ambled off down the slope. We made it to the Loop and our car a short time later. It turns out none of the groups that finished the hike shortly after us even saw the bear.

It was after 6pm by the time we were heading back down the Going-to-the-Sun Road. We stopped for a quick stroll around the Trail of the Cedars (photo on left). This trail is less than a mile, mainly on a boardwalk.The trees and the ferns are quite nice. After our stroll we headed to the Lake McDonald Lodge, where we encountered another bear (photo on right).

We had dinner with Maggie at Jammer Joe’s Grill at the lodge. Molly had to work the front desk until 11pm. Fortunately, the girls would have the next three days off. Mary and I headed back to our hotel to sleep. We would be back in the morning to pick up the girls and head to the Many Glaciers area in the Swiftcurrent Valley.

More pictures from Day 2.